My Laguna Niguel

Q: Do you have an easy way to remove adhesive that was used to put down vinyl on top of concrete? I would like to stain the concrete instead of tiling. I don't mind the imperfections in concrete, but I do want a continuity look of imperfections. My biggest hurdle is that it's a great room and half of the room is vinyl and the other half is carpet. I will have to patch holes where the tack strip comes up. I don't want to paint just stain. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. --Jayne P.

A: Unfortunately, you can't use "remove adhesive" and "easy" in the same sentence. There's really no quick and simple way to deal with adhesive removal, but there are some methods that work better than others. My best suggestion is a scraper -- anything from a putty knife or drywall knife to one of the wider, razor-edge scrapers with replaceable blades that you can get from a retailer of flooring supplies. Hold the scraper at a low angle to the floor, push it into the adhesive, and have a rag handy to remove the old adhesive as soon as it builds up on the blade.

When you have removed the adhesive, you can clean up whatever residue is left using mineral spirits. Be sure to have adequate ventilation in the room, and follow all of the safety regulations on the can.

Staining concrete can be very attractive, but it's not the easiest thing to do. I would definitely talk with an experienced dealer of concrete supplies to find out exactly how to clean the concrete prior to staining, as well as the specifics of how to mix and apply the stain and any top coat you desire. Also, be aware that the stain will not hide imperfections, such as areas that have been patched.

Q: I installed engineered hardwood floors a few years ago and they dent and scrape very easily. I've heard you can sand them since they have a layer of real wood. Would you recommend sanding or some other methods of hiding the various dings, gouges and scratches? My current finish is very smooth and shiny; I find it hard to imagine sanding won't ruin the look. --Rob R.

A: Engineered hardwood flooring is tongue-and-groove strips with a base layer of plywood or other material that is topped by a layer of hardwood veneer. The pieces then have a finish applied, which ranges from certain oil combinations to polyurethane or other top coats.

For a hardwood floor that's become scratched and dinged, the only effective solution is refinishing. Other methods of camouflaging the damaged areas don't work very well, and are especially difficult over large areas. So with that in mind, I would recommend refinishing over repair.

However, the first thing you need to determine is whether or not your floor can be refinished. The construction, finish and overall quality of engineered hardwood can vary greatly. The better grades have a relatively thick layer of hardwood veneer that can stand up to one or more sandings and refinishings, while lower-quality material has a very thin veneer that can't be sanded without risking going all the way through to the base layer below.

As to the finish itself, you probably won't be able to exactly duplicate what's currently on the floor, since that's a factory-applied finish. However, there are several very good polyurethane finishes on the market that will give you the look you're after, and many are superior to the finish that came on the boards originally. I would suggest that you talk with an experienced, licensed hardwood-floor contactor to determine if your floor can be refinished, and what the best way would be to go about it.

Q: I have an electric water heater that's about six years old and tried to change out the anode after an online discussion with the vendor. However, I gave up because it won't budge with several wrenches. My understanding of an anode is to collect foreign minerals to extend the life of the heater. Is this correct? The current problem is air in the water system -- each and every time I open a faucet anywhere in the home (a double-wide manufactured home) air spits out. The hot water feeds seem to be the worst and that is why I thought about the anode. I've also drained the tank several times and this doesn't help. Any advice? --Phil S.

A: The anode is definitely there to collect minerals in order to keep the inside of the tank from corroding, so replacing it probably won't help in your situation. I would begin by contacting your water company. Explain the situation, and see if they have done anything with their system that might be introducing air into the water lines.

Next, I would try lowering the temperature of the water, which may be enough to solve the problem. This is simply a matter of shutting the power, removing the thermostat covers on the side of the water heater, and turning the adjustment dials inside. I would suggest trying 120 to 130 degrees and see if it helps. Make sure both thermostats are set the same.

Finally, you may need to install an expansion tank on top of the water heater. This is a small metal tank with an air bladder inside, which gives the hot water a place to go as it expands while being heated. This relieves pressure inside the tank, and may stop the air bubbles. Consult with a licensed plumber for installation.

As of Jan. 1, 2010, the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) required lenders to provide mortgage borrowers with a new three-page Good Faith Estimate (GFE) to protect consumers who are applying for a mortgage.

The intent of the GFE is to educate consumers about the key terms and costs of a mortgage, both at origination and ongoing. A loan originator completes the form, giving the borrower a summary of the loan particulars and information necessary to shop rates and to be sure they're comparing like-type mortgages.

Although there's grumbling, mostly from mortgage brokers, lenders and closing/escrow agents, the format and information included in the new GFE is a step in the right direction. There are, however, some quirks.

For example, the GFE doesn't provide a complete and accurate account of the borrower's costs. Page two provides an itemization of loan origination and settlement costs. The origination charge is itemized as one lump sum; it's not broken down.

So, you don't know how much you're paying the appraiser for the appraisal, the loan originator for the origination fee, or other miscellaneous fees.

Another shortcoming is in the way transfer taxes are disclosed. The entire amount of any transfer taxes is entered on the GFE, even if the sellers pay part or all of it. This could inflate the buyer's estimated settlement costs.

To get around having to generate a GFE for buyers before they have committed to a given loan originator, some mortgage originators have developed worksheet quotes for buyers to use if they want to shop rates. HUD is adamant that these worksheets can't be used instead of a GFE. Furthermore, they provide the borrower no protection.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: The new federally mandated GFE provides protection for borrowers against being charged extra fees at closing that weren't disclosed on the GFE. An informal worksheet provides no such protection.

Origination and settlement fees are grouped into three different categories. The first category is fees that can't increase between the time the GFE is issued and closing. Included in this category are the lender or mortgage broker's origination fee, transfer taxes and adjustments to loan origination charges after the borrower locks in an interest rate.

Loan originators who miscalculate, causing fees to run higher at closing, have to make up the difference out of pocket. To cover themselves, some loan originators pad the Category one figure.

The second category of fees can increase up to 10 percent at closing and includes such things as government recording charges and title insurance -- if the title insurer is identified by the lender, not by the borrower. This is done to encourage lenders to shop for the most cost-effective coverage for the consumer.

The third category of fees can change at settlement and includes homeowners insurance and title insurance coverage if the borrower, not the lender, identifies the title insurer.

The new GFE also includes a tradeoff table that shows what the interest rate would be if you paid a higher origination fee vs. a lower origination fee: the higher the fee, the lower the rate; the lower the fee, the higher the rate.

Finally, there's a loan-shopping chart to use the mortgage information provided by one lender to compare with other lenders. There is no obligation to use a loan originator who completes a GFE for you. A loan originator can't refuse to provide a GFE to a prospective borrower who asks for one.

As soon as a prospective borrower provides essential application information, such as Social Security number, property address, etc., the originator is to provide a GFE.

THE CLOSING: Lenders are required to provide a GFE within three days of receiving the borrower's application.